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VOOZH | about |
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VOOZH | about |
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👁 Page Type Page Type: |
Mountain/Rock |
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👁 Location Lat/Lon: |
45.83330°N / 6.86422°E |
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👁 Activities Activities: |
Mountaineering, Trad Climbing, Ice Climbing, Mixed, Skiing |
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👁 Seasons Season: |
Summer |
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👁 Additional Information Elevation: |
15781 ft / 4810 m |
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👁 Sign the Climber's Log |
Mont Blanc/Monte Bianco 4.808m/4.810m
Mont Blanc (4.810m), the French name - or also Monte Bianco, the Italian name - is part of the Graian Alps and is the highest mountain of the namesake massif, an extensive group composed of many peaks and spires, each with their own routes. It's the most important mountain of the European continent, a mountain granite-made and covered by a permanent ice cap. The beauty of the protogynous red granite of Mont Blanc is known throughout the world!
Mont Blanc is supported by powerful ridges between which steep glaciers descend. While on the Southern side (Italian side) it has steep walls of rock interspersed with ice gullies, on the Northern side (French side) it is covered by glaciers, including the majestic Glacier des Bossons which descends for about 9 km almost to the villages in the valley floor. The body of the mountain is naturally delimited by the high hills of Col du Dome, Col de la Brenva, Col Moore, Col de Peuterey, Col Eccles and Col Emile Rey and also includes the Monte Bianco di Courmayeur, the Grand Pilier d'Angle and Picco Luigi Amedeo.
It's the most important mountain of the European continent. The massif straddles the French-Italian border and the two main access cities are Courmayeur, Valle d'Aosta (on the Italian side) and Chamonix, Haute-Savoie (on the French side), connected by the long automotive tunnel crossing the massif. The main summit is the highest one in the Alps with an elevation difference from bottom to top of more than 13,000 feet. Mont Blanc has traditionally been considered to be 4.810 meters high, but GPS-based measurements made in 2001 and 2003 show differences of a few meters from year to year, because of fluctuations in the thickness of the glacier that covers the peak to a depth of up to 23 meters. Some measurements: 4.806m 4.807m 4.808m 4.810m 4.811m but the official measurement remains 4.810 meters. There are four "Normal" routes that are not very difficult (but not without danger!) but very popular and, especially the Gouter route on the French side, often crowded. As in other Alpine mountain groups, in the Mont Blanc group in recent years global warming is profoundly modifying the climbing terrain, especially on ice, snow and mixed routes. As a result, the conditions of some routes, including the Normal routes, are undergoing a worsening in terms of safety.
For aditional information about the whole massif, go to the Mont Blanc Group page.
Mont Blanc was first climbed on 1786, August 8th, by Jacques Balmat and Michel Paccard, both from Chamonix. The first woman to reach the summit, in 1808, was Marie Paradis. The first dog to reach the summit was instead Tschingel, a middle-height she-dog born in a high alp of the Berner Oberland, which climbed the summit on her pawn!
Since the middle of the 18th century, people tried to climb the Mont Blanc as the highest summit of the Alps and it continues to remain a goal of many mountaineers today. The name Mont Blanc was not used until about 1740. Horace Benedict de Saussure, aged twenty, journeyed on foot from his native town Geneva to the "Glacières de Chamouny". On 24 July, 1760, he reaches the Brévent. Saussure gave birth to the idea of Mont Blanc as "a summit to climb", and created a whole new movement - Alpinism. Back in Chamonix, he posted the announcement in all the parish churches of the valley, promising to give "a very considerable reward" to any who might be able to find a viable route to the summit of Mont Blanc.
Attempts were made on the mountain in 1783, 84 and 85, but the attempt which is to point the way to success took place on 8 June 1786. On that day, two parties of guides, one coming up by the Grands Mulets, the other by the Aiguille du Goûter, met at the Dôme du Goûter. The weather began to cloud over, leading to a general retreat. On the way back from the Dôme du Gouter, one of the party, the crystal-hunter, Jacques Balmat, who joined the climb at the last minute and whose relationship with his companions is none too friendly, went off to one side to look for crystals in a rock off the track. When he wanted to rejoin the others, he found that they have disappeared. Balmat set off on the descent, but at the Grand Plateau, was caught by storm and nightfall and was forced to bivouac, sitting on his sack and his snowshoes. His survival, however, proves that it is perfectly possible, if necessary, to take two days for the climb.
The Chamonix doctor, Michel Paccard, had a dream: to carry a barometer to the summit and take a reading there. An excellent mountaineer, he had already made several attempts on the mountain. As it happens, the doctor and the crystal-hunter were the best-qualified and the most determined and were, as a pair, ideally complementary. Paccard had no particular financial interest in the expedition so that Balmat was not obliged to share the prize offered by Saussure. Two months later, on 8 August 1786, Paccard and Balmat were successful in that greatest of first ascents, the first ascent of Mont Blanc. They climbed the mountain by way of the Rocher Rouge and the NE slope. The story of the first ascent of Mont Blanc, besides giving rise to the history of mountaineering, also gave rise to the first mountaineering controversy. See more info here: Mont Blanc the first ascent and the first mountaineering controversy.
On year later, de Saussure had the pleasure of standing on the summit.
Chronology
1840: Grand Mulet over the Grand Plateau: Marie Coutlet and Company.
1861: Aiguille du Goûter and Bosses Ridge: Melchior Anderegg, JJ Benen, Peter Peren, Leslie Stephen, FF Tuckett.
1865: Brenva Spur: J&M Anderegg, GS MAthews, AW Moore, father and son Frank and Horace Walker.
1872: SW Face: Jean-Antoine Carrel, J Fischer, TS Kennedy.
1890: Normal Italian route: J&L Bonin, Achille Ratti (later Pope Pius XI), J Gadin, A Proment.
1893: Peuterey Ridge: Emile Rey, Christian Klucker, César Ollier, Paul Güssfeldt.
1901: Brouillard Ridge with NW approach: GB&GF Gugliermina, Joseph Brocherel.
1911: (Aug 9): Brouillard Ridge Direct: Joseph Knubel, GW Young, HO Jones, K Blodig.
1919: Innominata Ridge: Adolphe and Henri Rey, Adolf Aufdenblatten, SL Courtald and EG Oliver.
1927: Brenva Face by the Red Sentinel: T Graham Browne, FS Smythe.
1928: Brenva Face by Route Major: T Graham Browne and FS Smythe.
1940: right hand Frêney Pillar (Gervasutti Pillar): Giusto Gervasutti and P. Bollini di Predosa.
1959: far left of Pilier Rouge on Pic Luigi Amedeo: Walter Bonatti and Andrea Oggioni.
1961: Central Pilar of Frêney: Chris Bonington, Don Whillans, Jan Clough and Jan Duglosz, followed shortly after by the Franco-Italian team composed of René Desmaison, Pierre Julien, Yves Pollet-Villard and Ignazio Piussi.
The main summit of Mont Blanc is the subject of two very interesting and not entirely resolved questions regarding its altitude and also its location.
- Is Mont Blanc still considered the highest peak on the European continent?
According to many sources, Mont Blanc is the highest mountain not only in the Alps but also in Europe, according to a widespread geographical convention that excludes the Caucasus from the European continent, hence the nicknames of the roof of Acaucasian Europe and the King of the Alps. But not everyone agrees. According to other sources Mont Blanc would have lost the title of the highest peak in Europe in favor of Mount Elbrus (5.642m). The ambiguity is due to the different conventions that can be adopted to define the position of the eastern European border: while in the continental European countries and in Russia it is assumed that the natural border between Europe and Asia passes through the Kuma-Manyč depression, in the Anglo-Saxon countries it is often assumed that the Eurasian border passes through the Caucasus watershed, consequently including Mount Elbrus within Europe. If we consider this hypothesis to be correct in relation to the European borders, Mont Blanc would no longer be the highest mountain on the European continent, but not even among the top three. The relative ranking, in fact, would see two other Caucasian peaks in second and third place: Dykh-Tau (5.205m, Russia) and Shkhara (5.193m, Georgia). More info here: geopop.
- Where is located the main summit of Mont Blanc? Exclusively in France or is it shared by both nations?
Even in this case it is a question of identifying where is situated the exact border between Italy and France. A controversial question. Does it run across Monte Bianco di Courmayeur, a summit close to the main summit of Mont Blanc, or across the main Mont Blanc summit? French and Swiss maps also show the Monte Bianco di Courmayeur to be on the border. However, most insist that the border crosses Mont Blanc itself. According to the latest information on the web, the border between Italy and France would run on the main summit of Mont Blanc and not on the Mont Blanc di Courmayeur; consequently this latter summit would be included entirely in the Italian territory.
Contributed by signorelli
There have been two treaties dealing with this matter between France and Italy:
1) One done in 1796 - by Napoleon I - who established that the border line passed "on the highest ridge of the mountain as seen by Courmayeur" (thus leaving an ambiguity if this should have been interpreted as "from Courmayeur - the village" or "from Courmayeur - the administrative territory".
2) A second one, who has been never modified and IS STILL LEGALLY VALID was established in 1860 between Napoleon III and the Italian king Vittorio Emanuele II, unambiguously establishing that the border line passed "on the highest point of the mountain, at 4.807m." This would have settled it, but French cartographers, four years later, printed an official map where the border line was passing on the Monte Bianco di Courmayeur. For several political reasons (i.e. at the time France was a very valuable ally) the Italian government didn't react (and neither did the French one), and so the matter was left alone for decades. It was actually re-evaluated (without reaching an new settlement) only after WWII. In short: as far as international treaties goes, the border passes on the main summit (and so, MB de Courmayeur is entirely in Italian territory). But the French cartographic custom (never disputed officially) is to claim the entire summit.
See here the latest information: The border on Mont Blanc.
La cima principale del Monte Bianco è oggetto di due questioni molto interessanti e non del tutto risolte riguardanti la sua altitudine e anche la sua posizione.
- Il Monte Bianco è ancora considerato la cima più alta del continente europeo?
Secondo molte fonti, il Monte Bianco è la montagna più alta non solo delle Alpi ma anche d'Europa, secondo una diffusa convenzione geografica che esclude il Caucaso dal continente europeo, da cui i soprannomi di tetto dell'Europa acaucasica e Re delle Alpi. Ma non tutti sono d'accordo. Secondo altre fonti il Monte Bianco avrebbe perso il titolo di cima più alta d'Europa a favore del Monte Elbrus (5.642 m). L'ambiguità è dovuta alle diverse convenzioni che possono essere adottate per definire la posizione del confine orientale europeo: mentre nei paesi dell'Europa continentale e in Russia si suppone che il confine naturale tra Europa e Asia passi attraverso la depressione di Kuma-Manyč, nei paesi anglosassoni si suppone spesso che il confine eurasiatico passi attraverso lo spartiacque del Caucaso, includendo di conseguenza il Monte Elbrus all'interno dell'Europa. Se consideriamo corretta questa ipotesi in relazione ai confini europei, il Monte Bianco non sarebbe più la montagna più alta del continente europeo, ma nemmeno tra le prime tre. La classifica relativa, infatti, vedrebbe altre due vette caucasiche al secondo e terzo posto: Dykh-Tau (5.205 m, Russia) e Shkhara (5.193 m, Georgia). Maggiori info qui: geopop.
- Dove si trova la cima principale del Monte Bianco? Esclusivamente in Francia o è condivisa da entrambe le nazioni?
Anche in questo caso si tratta di identificare dove si trovi esattamente il confine tra Italia e Francia. Una questione controversa. Corre attraverso il Monte Bianco di Courmayeur, una cima vicina alla cima principale del Monte Bianco, o attraverso la cima principale del Monte Bianco? Anche le mappe francesi e svizzere mostrano il Monte Bianco di Courmayeur come confine. Tuttavia, la maggior parte insiste sul fatto che il confine attraversi il Monte Bianco stesso. Secondo le ultime informazioni sul web, il confine tra Italia e Francia correrebbe sulla cima principale del Monte Bianco e non sul Monte Bianco di Courmayeur; di conseguenza quest'ultima cima sarebbe inclusa interamente nel territorio italiano.
Contributo di signorelli
Ci sono stati due trattati riguardanti questa controversia tra Francia e Italia:
1) Il primo fatto nel 1796 - da Napoleone I - stabilì che la linea di confine passava "sulla cresta più alta della montagna vista da Courmayeur" (lasciando quindi un'ambiguità se questo avrebbe dovuto essere interpretato come "da Courmayeur - il villaggio" o "da Courmayeur - il territorio amministrativo".
2) Il secondo, che non è mai stato modificato ed È ANCORA LEGALMENTE VALIDO fu stabilito nel 1860 tra Napoleone III e il re italiano Vittorio Emanuele II, stabilendo inequivocabilmente che la linea di confine passava "sul punto più alto della montagna, a 4.810 m". Questo avrebbe risolto la questione, ma i cartografi francesi, quattro anni dopo, stamparono una mappa ufficiale in cui la linea di confine passava sul Monte Bianco di Courmayeur. Per diverse ragioni politiche (vale a dire che all'epoca la Francia era un alleato molto prezioso) il governo italiano non reagì (e nemmeno quello francese), e così la questione rimase in sospeso per decenni. Fu effettivamente rivalutata (senza raggiungere un nuovo accordo) solo dopo la II guerra mondiale. In breve: per quanto riguarda i trattati internazionali, il confine passa sulla cima principale (e quindi, MB di Courmayeur è interamente in territorio italiano). Ma l'usanza cartografica francese (mai contestata ufficialmente) è di rivendicare l'intera cima.
Vedi qui le ultime informazioni:Il confine sul Monte Bianco.
Mont Blanc is reached either from Chamonix in the Savoy valley in France or from Courmayeur in the Val d'Aosta in Italy. The valleys on the Italian side form a T, with the NW-SE trending Val d'Aosta forming its vertical leg. At Entreves at the NW end of Val d'Aosta, Val Veny splits off to the SW and Val Ferret splits off to the NE. Both public transportation and private car will easily reach these destinations. Chamonix (N506) and Courmayeur (E21B) lie along major highways and major rail lines. If coming from Switzerland and points East, Chamonix is reached by way of Martigny, Switzerland. One can continue through Chamonix and the Mont Blanc tunnel to reach the Val d'Aosta or one can continue south from Martigny, over St. Bernard Pass to Aosta and then NW to Courmayeur. Traveling between the French and Italian sides of the mountain has been made faster and simpler by the 11.6 km long Mont Blanc Tunnel, which is a major route across the Alps. Once in town, local buses and cable cars will take you to the trailhead of the hut from which the particular route is based.
For more information:
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Il Monte Bianco è raggiungibile da Chamonix nella valle della Savoia in Francia o da Courmayeur nella Val d'Aosta in Italia. Le valli sul versante italiano formano una T, con la Val d'Aosta che si orienta da NO a SE che forma la sua gamba verticale. A Entreves all'estremità NO della Val d'Aosta, la Val Veny si divide a SO e la Val Ferret a NE. Sia i trasporti pubblici che le auto private raggiungono facilmente queste destinazioni. Chamonix (N506) e Courmayeur (E21B) si trovano lungo le principali autostrade e linee ferroviarie. Se si arriva dalla Svizzera e da punti orientali, Chamonix è raggiungibile tramite Martigny, Svizzera. Si può proseguire attraverso Chamonix e il tunnel del Monte Bianco per raggiungere la Val d'Aosta oppure si può continuare verso sud da Martigny, attraverso il Passo del San Bernardo fino ad Aosta e poi verso NO fino a Courmayeur. Viaggiare tra il versante francese e quello italiano della montagna è diventato più veloce e semplice grazie al Mont Blanc Tunnel, lungo 11,6 km, che è una delle principali vie di comunicazione attraverso le Alpi. Una volta in città, gli autobus locali e le funivie ti porteranno all'inizio del sentiero del rifugio da cui parte il percorso specifico.
Per maggiori informazioni:
The Normal Routes to climb the summit of Mont Blanc are described here. There is also a hiking trail called the Tour du Mont Blanc that circumnavigates the mountain.
NOTE! All the routes even if of low difficulty level require skilled knowledge in glacier travel. The weather on Mont Blanc can change very rapidly, so that one needs to be prepared for anything. Expect high winds on the summit ridge which is narrow and exposed.
WARNING: Mont Blanc Group a grave of ice for 160 bodies
This route it is considered the easiest of the normal routes, anyhow requires good safety conditions for the climb of the Grand Couloir at the foot of the Aiguille du Gouter. It is just in this section that the greatest difficulties are concentrated. The overnight stay is at the Refuge du Gouter. It is needed a very early reservation for this hut with Internet booking required. Alternatively, one can stay at the Tête Rousse hut. It adds 2 to 3 hours to the ascent time in the second day, but this option has the advantage of crossing the Grand Couloir early in the day, before the rocks start falling.
APPROACH - From Chamonix to Saint Gervais les Bains, where you take the rack railway to Nid d'Aigle, which can also be reached from Les Houches by cable car to Bellevue and then by train.
ROUTE REPORT
- Climb to the Refuge du Gouter 3.835m (vertical gain 1.500m) - From the station at 2.372m follow the path towards NE, enter a valley, then bend to SE, climb a steep rocky rib, pass the 3.132m altitude, flanking what remains of the Glacier de Tete Rousse, in sight of the refuge of the same name. Continue along the ridge, cross to the right and along a track running along the S side of the Aiguille du Goûter reach the Gran Couloir, equipped with fixed ropes. Cross it quickly (frequent rockfall, helmet strongly recommended), then climb up the large wall of broken and unstable rocks, with several equipped sections, to the new and futuristic Refuge du Gouter 3.835m.
- Climb to the summit of Mont Blanc (vertical gain 1.000m) - From behind the refuge, take the glacier track that, after crossing the Aiguille de Gouter 3.863m, continues with a steeper slope towards the Dome de Gouter 4.304m, which can be reached shortly or can be skirted to the left, descending slightly and then flattening out to the col at 4.250m. A steep climb from the col takes you to the Capanna Vallot 4.362m, which can only be used in an emergency. Cross the plateau, returning to the main ridge, which becomes steep and sharp. Pass the summit of the Grande Bosse 4.513m, then the Petite Bosse 4.547m, then grazing the rocky summit of the Tournette 4.677m. Once you reach a pass, you tackle the last aerial stretch of the ridge that leads to the summit dome.
The Grand Mulets route is one of the Normal routes from the French side and its name derives from the Grands Mulets spur, on which it's located the refuge of the same name, along the ascent route. The lower part of this route (up to the Grand Plateau) is the same as the route of the first climbers with the difference that in the upper part, instead of passing through the Col du Dôme and the Bosses ridge, the ancient route climbed directly the North face, through the Rochers Rouges. It is also a very popular route for the ski mountaineering climb to the summit of Mont Blanc.
- Climb to the Refuge du Grand Mulets 3.051m (vertical gain 741m) - From the station of Plan de l’Aiguille 2.310m head towards SE, overcome the moraine of Des Pèlerins glacier, cross the glacier on the flat and climb up to the old station of the Des Glaciers cable car. Passing under the forepart of the Aiguille du Midi reach the Jonction, a delicate place due to the presence of many crevasses caused by the meeting of the two glacial tongues. Then go up the glacier until you reach the rocks preceeding the refuge at an altitude of 3.051m.
- Climb to the summit of Mont Blanc (vertical gain 1.757m) - From the refuge cross diagonally the glacier, then pass by two rocky areas emerging from the ridge of the Dome du Gouter. Overcome a steep slope to reach the Petit Plateau. Overcome another steep slope to reach the Grand Plateau. Turn right to reach the Col du Dome 4.240m and along a steep slope reach the Refuge Vallot 4.362m. From here along the airy crest of the Bosses (in common with the Gouter route) at the top.
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Another option is the Aiguille du Midi Route, also named "3 Mounts Blanc Traverse", crossing Mont Blanc du Tacul, Mont Maudit to Mont Blanc. Can be done in descent after ascending by one of the other routes or one can climb this route and descend one of the other normal routes.
Qui sono descritte le Vie Normali per scalare la vetta del Monte Bianco. C'è anche un sentiero escursionistico chiamato Tour du Mont Blanc che circumnaviga la montagna.
NOTA! Tutti i percorsi richiedono una conoscenza approfondita dei ghiacciai. Il meteo sul Monte Bianco può cambiare molto rapidamente, quindi bisogna essere preparati a tutto. Aspettatevi forti venti sulla cresta sommitale che è stretta ed esposta.
MONITO: Gruppo del Monte Bianco una tomba di ghiaccio per 160 corpi
Questa via è considerata la più facile delle vie normali, richiede comunque buone condizioni di sicurezza per la salita del Grand Couloir ai piedi dell'Aiguille du Gouter. È proprio in questo tratto che si concentrano le maggiori difficoltà. Pernottamento al Refuge du Gouter. Per questo rifugio è necessaria una prenotazione molto anticipata tramite internet. In alternativa si può soggiornare al rifugio Tête Rousse. Sono dalle 2 alle 3 ore di salita in più nel secondo giorno, ma con questa opzione si ha il vantaggio di attraversare il Grand Couloir nelle prime ore del giorno, prima che inizi la caduta pietre.
ACCESSO - Da Chamonix a Saint Gervais les Bains, dove si prende il trenino a cremagliera per Nid d´Aigle, raggiungibile pure da Les Houches in funivia fino a Bellevue e quindi in trenino.
RELAZIONE
- Salita al Refuge du Gouter 3.835 m (dislivello 1.500 m) - Dalla stazione a 2.372 m, seguire il sentiero verso NE, entrare in una valle, quindi piegare a SE, salire una ripida costola rocciosa, superare la quota 3.132 m, costeggiando ciò che resta del Glacier de Tete Rousse, in vista dell'omonimo rifugio. Proseguire lungo la cresta, attraversare a destra e lungo una traccia che costeggia il versante S dell'Aiguille du Goûter raggiungere il Gran Couloir, attrezzato con corde fisse. Attraversarlo velocemente (frequenti cadute di massi, casco vivamente consigliato), quindi risalire la grande parete di rocce rotte e instabili, con numerosi tratti attrezzati, fino al nuovo e futuristico Refuge du Gouter 3.835 m.
- Salita alla vetta del Monte Bianco (dislivello 1.000 m) - Da dietro il rifugio, imboccare la pista glaciale che, dopo aver attraversato l'Aiguille de Gouter 3.863 m, prosegue con pendenza più ripida verso il Dome de Gouter 4.304 m, che si può raggiungere in breve o costeggiare a sinistra, scendendo leggermente e poi spianando fino al colle a 4.250 m. Dal colle una ripida salita porta alla Capanna Vallot 4.362 m, utilizzabile solo in caso di emergenza. Attraversare l'altopiano, tornando sulla cresta principale, che diventa ripida e affilata. Si supera la cima della Grande Bosse 4.513 m, poi la Petite Bosse 4.547 m, quindi si sfiora la cima rocciosa della Tournette 4.677 m. Giunti a un passo, si affronta l'ultimo tratto aereo della cresta che porta alla cupola sommitale.
La via dei Grand Mulets è una delle vie normali dal versante francese e deve il suo nome allo sperone dei Grands Mulets, su cui è situato l'omonimo rifugio, lungo la via di salita. La parte bassa di questa via (fino al Grand Plateau) è la stessa della via dei primi salitori con la differenza che nella parte alta, anziché passare per il Col du Dôme e la cresta delle Bosses, la via antica saliva direttamente la parete Nord, attraverso i Rochers Rouges. E' anche una via molto frequentata per la salita sci-alpinistica alla vetta del Bianco.
- Salita al Refuge du Grand Mulets 3.051 m (dislivello 741 m) - Dalla stazione di Plan de l'Aiguille 2.310 m dirigersi verso SE, superare la morena del ghiacciaio Des Pèlerins, attraversare il ghiacciaio in piano e salire fino alla vecchia stazione della funivia Des Glaciers. Passando sotto l'avancorpo dell'Aiguille du Midi si raggiunge la Jonction, luogo delicato per la presenza di numerosi crepacci causati dall'incontro delle due lingue glaciali. Si risale poi il ghiacciaio fino a raggiungere le rocce che precedono il rifugio a quota 3.051 m.
- Salita alla vetta del Monte Bianco (dislivello 1.757 m) - Dal rifugio si attraversa in diagonale il ghiacciaio, quindi si superano due zone rocciose emergenti dalla cresta del Dome du Gouter. Si supera un ripido pendio per raggiungere il Petit Plateau. Si supera un altro ripido pendio per raggiungere il Grand Plateau. Si svolta a destra per raggiungere il Col du Dome 4.240 m e lungo un ripido pendio si raggiunge il Refuge Vallot 4.362 m. Da qui lungo l'aerea cresta delle Bosses (in comune con la via del Gouter) in vetta.
Guarda qui il report completo: 3 Mounts Blanc Traverse
Un'altra opzione è la via Aiguille du Midi, chiamata anche "Traversata dei 3 Monte Bianco", che attraversa il Mont Blanc du Tacul, il Mont Maudit fino al Mont Blanc. Può essere fatta in discesa dopo essere saliti da una delle altre vie oppure si può salire questa via e scendere da una delle altre vie normali.
The Normal route on the Italian side is via the Rifugio Gonella 3.071m. from the Val Veny. The route travels up a crevassed Dôme glacier to just above the Col de Bionnassay and on to the Dôme du Gouter, connecting to the Aiguille du Goûter route. It is also possible to climb the rocky ridge that parallels the glacier. See here the full route report: Italian Normal route
La via Normale sul versante italiano sale dalla Val Veny al Rifugio Gonella 3.071m. Il percorso risale poi il crepacciato ghiacciaio del Dôme fino a poco sopra il Col de Bionnassay e prosegue fino al Dôme du Gouter, collegandosi alla via dell'Aiguille du Goûter. È anche possibile scalare la cresta rocciosa che corre parallela al ghiacciaio. A questo link la relazione: Italian Normal route
There are many routes that embrace every degree of difficulty! Here is just a brief list of the more popular ones. Only routes that are intended to reach the summit of Mont Blanc are listed. Refer to a guidebook or the route pages for more details! Conditions are constantly changing, which have forced some variations on the classic routes, so consulting a current guide and inquiring locally is necessary.
Ci sono molti itinerari per ogni grado di difficoltà! Troverete un elenco delle più importanti vie classiche. Sono elencati solo i percorsi che raggiungono la vetta del Monte Bianco. Per maggiori dettagli, fare riferimento a una guida o alle pagine delle vie! Le condizioni cambiano costantemente, il che ha imposto alcune varianti sui percorsi classici, quindi è necessario consultare una guida attuale e informarsi localmente.
North Ridge of Dôme du Goûter
AD-, glacier 45°
Traverse from Aiguille de Bionassay (Bionassay NW face)
AD, snow and ice 55°, 1.050 vertical m from the Tête Rousse hut to Aig. de Bionnassay, 750m from Aig.d.B. to Mont Blanc summit. 11.5 to 13 hours!
First ascent by Buxton, Grove, MacDonald with Cachat and Payot, 28 July 1865.
Return to top
Pilier North of Freney Via Gervasutti TD+, mixed
Central Pillar of Frêney ED1, rock, VI,A1
Brouillard Ridge
AD+, mixed III+, (2.200 vertical meters), 10 to 18 hours from the Monzino hut.
Innominata Ridge
D+, mixed, 54°, IV+, (1.450 vertical meters). 12-17 hours from the Monzino hut or 7 to 10 hours from the Eccles Bivouac. See here the route report: The Innominata Ridge
Peuterey Ridge
There are several variations of this ridge, depending on how much of it one traverses.
D+, most of the rock UIAA II and III with some IV (YDS 4th and easy 5th) with mixed snow and ice to 54 degrees. 2.500 vertical meters. 10 to 20 hours from the Monzino hut. Many will bivouac at least once. Difficult to escape, should the weather turn bad.
First ascent by any route: Emile Rey, Christian Klucker, César Ollier, Paul Güssfeldt, 1893
First ascent by the Aig. Blanche de Peuterey: Obersteiner and Schreiner, 30/31 July 1927.
First ascent by the east side of the Col de Peuterey: G. Herzog, M. Herzog, G. Rébuffat and L Terray, 15 Aug 1944
The Brenva Spur
D-, mixed, 45-50°, II-III - The easiest and safer route from the Brenva side. Only 1 critical point: the last ice wall, changing during the season - One negative point: at the exit from the Spur climbers often loose the willing to go to the summit of Mont Blanc...turning to the right and going to the Aiguille du Midi (across Maudit and Tacul). A real shame!
Red Sentinel (Sentinella Rossa)
D+, mixed, 55°, avg. 47° (1.000m), III and II
Major Route on Brenva
TD-, mixed, 57°, V- See here the route report: Major route on Brenva
The following is additional information from gabriele.roth
Brenva Spur - the easiest and safer route from the Brenva side - only 1 critical point : the last ice wall, changing during the season - one negative point : coming out from the Spur you loose the willing to go to the summit ... too far and of "less level" so, normally climbers turn to the right and come back to Aiguille du Midi (crossing the slops of Maudit and Tacul).
Sentinella Rossa - looks to be the safer route to the summit (I've seen it from both sides - Spur and Major) - but looks also a strange mix of snow and rock, very discontinuous and (I think) not much engaging.
Poire - dangerous approach and, I think, some danger even along the route, the Poire itself (a rocky triangle) is not so marked so that ice falls can cross the whole wall ... But, in safe conditions I think it should be very fine, complete ... a classic Himalayan ascent ...
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Tournette Spur (Rocher du Mont Blanc)
AD-, mixed III, mostly II, 30-45°
See recent advice:
Last summer (aug. 2005) we climbed Mont Blanc. We had chosen for the route "Tournette Spur". The couloirs, snow channel, and the glacier near to it, where difficult, almost impossibel to reach. Hugh crevasses en falling rocks makes it verry dangerous. So we went to the Gonella Hut. From here we could see the "Link Couloir". The snow in the upper part of this couloir was disappear and we saw rock-avalanches. No way, nobody wants to climb there. On th 4th Aug we reached the summit via the "Italian normal route". We believe that the Tornette Spur the next years not in condition is to climb. And if you still wants to try; Good Luck !
Les Bosses SW Side
AD, mixed
Miage Face, Left-Hand Spur (Jaccoux-Domenech)
D, mixed
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There are no fees and no permits required
Both Courmayeur and Chamonix have a plethora of hotels, hostels, rooms to rent and campsites. The whole area is popular year round and reservations are advised.
- Camping Glacier d'Argentière
- Argentière (8 km. North to Chamonix) +33(0)450541736
- Camping la Mer de Glace
- Les Praz (3 km. North to Chamonix) +33(0)450534403
- Camping les Deux Glaciers
- Les Bossons (3 km. South to Chamonix) +33(0)450531584
- Camping les Arolles - close to the centre of Chamonix - +33(0)450531430
- Camping les Cimes
- Les Bossons (3 km. South to Chamonix) +33(0)450535893
- Camping les Marmottes - +33(0)450536124
Campsites vary and the further away you go from the center of Chamonix the cheaper things become. If staying at a gite or campsite, make sure you get the Chamonix visitor card that gives you free access to the bus system...don't know if that includes any train movement within the valley? The tourist board have a great booklet that lists all the campsites and every kind of accommodation.
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Free camping in the Aosta Valley region is not allowed below 2.500m. However, it's tolerated if you keep a low profile, such as making no fires. The following campgrounds, listed alphabetically, are all accessible by car or by bus from Courmayeur.
Val Veny
- Camping Aiguille Noire at Zerotta, near the lower station of the chair lift. A good place for families and big groups.
- Camping Cuignon in Val Veny is located between Zerotta and the military barracks. From the outside it looks quite neat and smaller than Aiguille Noire
- Camping La Sorgente It is located in a clearing of the forest called Peuterey, exactly under the Mont Noir south face. The location is gorgeous (the ancient forest nearby is said to have been a Celtic worship center). They're very climber-friendly and the camping ground itself is well organized.
Val Ferret
- Camping Grandes Jorasses between Planpincieux and the golf course. Being near Planpincieux, it's a lively and well placed facility in a partially forested area.
- Camping Tronchey lies just in front of the entrance of the golf club, right under the monstrous Tronchey Face of the Grandes Jorasses. (tel. +39 0165 869707).
On the other hand, if you don't like camping you can consider sleeping here: Chalet Val Ferret a seven room little hotel with restaurant at Arnouva, where the Val Ferret road ends, just in front of the opening of the Triolet basin. The place is gorgeous, and you're in a good position both for climbing and hiking. Also, you can ask the manager for information about the nearest sport and trad climbs of the trendy Triolet area.
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Alternatively you can consider sleeping in one of the low altitudes refuges:
- Rifugio Elisabetta at the head of the Val Veny near Col de la Seigne
- Rifugio Elena in Val Ferret
- Rifugio Bonatti (2.050m) in Val Ferret
If you want to consider staying there for several days, book well in advance. In August and July these places become quite packed with hikers doing the Tour De Mont Blanc.
Refuge des Cosmiques (3.613m)
The Refuge des Cosmiques is situated on a shoulder between the Col du Midi and the SW-ridge of the Aig. du Midi (Cosmiques-ridge).
according to Eberlein (p. 52):
140 beds
guarded from February till october
phone: ++33(0)450544016
Refuge du Gouter (3.835m)
This hut, which is also called Refuge de l'Aiguille du Goûter, is the starting point for the most popular route to the summit of Mont Blanc. Therefore it is completely overcrowded during the season. You have to make an early reservation for this hut. From Chamonix, take the bus to Les Houches and then the tramway to Nid d'Aigle. From there, follow the trail up to the Tête Rousse glacier, passing by the Tëte Rousse hut. Either scramble up the rock rib to the North of the Grand Couloir or sprint across the couloir and scramble up the easier slope to the hut.
Internet booking required to access this refuge. Bivouac not authorized
Refuge de Tete Rousse (3.167m)
This hut is situated below the West flank of Aiguille du Goûter. This hut can also be used to climb the Dôme du Goûter route. It has the added advantage that you will cross the dangerous couloir very early in the morning before the barrage of rockfall begins. Adds about 2 to 3 hours to the ascent time.
Refuge des Grands Mulets (3.051m)
This hut is situated on a rock spur above glacier des Bossons. From Chamonix take the Midi téléphérique to the half way station at Plan de l'Aiguille, then follow the trail to Glacier de Pélerins and cross its tongue. Continue on the trail past an old cable car station (Gare des Glaciers) and up the left side of the Glacier des Bossons. The glacier is crossed to the S-SW to La Jonction, eventually coming to a trail leading to the hut.
The Grands Mulets refuge is located on one of the access routes to Mont Blanc, very popular with skiers, in a high mountain glacier environment.
Refuge de la Fédération Française des Clubs Alpins et de Montagne
Gardien(ne)s : Benoit Durand
Guarding period
From March 28 to July 31, 2025
Refuge Durier (3.358m)
This hut managed during the summer has 17 places. Located on the French/Italian border, 200 m North of the Col du Miage. From there one can climb the South ridge of the Aiguille de Bionnassay, the Dômes de Miages as well as combine these climbs into a 3 to 4 day traverse of Mont Blanc.
Refuge de la Fédération Française des Clubs Alpins et de Montagne
Gardien(ne)s : Manon Navillod Davoine
During the unguarded period, all FFCAM refuges keep an accessible and open part, "the winter refuge", in order to play their role as shelter and rescue.
Refuge du Plan de l'Aiguille (2.207m)
Close to the intermediate station of the Midi cable car. Altitude: 2207 m - Capacity: 39 People
Opening period: Open from 29 May 2025 to 5 October 2025
Completely renovated, the refuge is located at the foot of the Aiguille du Midi, facing Mont Blanc, at 2200 meters above sea level.
Abri Simond Bivouac
The Abri Simond Bivouac is situated just a few meters northern of the Refuge des Cosmiques, just at the beginning of the Arête des Cosmiques Open in winter when the Refuge des Cosmiques is closed.
Refuge Vallot is neither a hut nor a bivouac hut, but only a place for emergency. It is situated at the beginning of the Bosses ridge. Overnight stays are not allowed! 12 beds
Rifugio Torino (3.322m/3.375m)
The Rif. Torino has 2 huts, the lower and older one and the upper, new one. Both huts are connected by a tunnel. It sits only a short distance from the Funivie Monte Bianco cable car station from La Palud (Entréves). The lower old one according to Eberlein(pp. 64-65):
70 beds
serviced from October to June Tel. 00390/165/846484
the upper new one according to Eberlein (pp. 65-65):
170 beds
serviced from June to September
Tel. 00390/165/844034 (expensive)
Rifugio Gonella (3.071m)
Sometimes this hut is called Refuge du Dôme. It is the starting point of the Italian normal route. From Cantinae de la Visaille (1.653m, bus from Courmayeur) one follows the trail to the Miage glacier which is ascended past where the Dôme glacier meets it and on to the southern spur of the Aiguilles Grise. Here a trail leads to the hut.
Capanna Quintino Sella (3.396m)
This bivouac (15 bed) is not guarded and is situated to shorten the approach to Tournettes spur. Nowday is closed and inaccessible due to a landslide.
Rifugio Monzino (2.590m)
It stands between the tormented glaciers of Brouillard and Freney, which are in turn surrounded by the splendid and severe amphitheatre formed by the Aiguille Noire, the Peuterey ridge, the enormous pillars of Mont Blanc and the crests of Innominata and Brouillard.It is possible to arrange to transport backpacks by a lift from Visaille.
Bivacco Lampugnani - Grassi al Col Eccles (3.850m)
This bivouac, which is also called Biv. Lampugnani-Grassi, is an eagle nest situated 200m below Pointe Eccles on the SW-ridge. On the IGN-map, it is marked on a point which is too high. 4-8 beds
Bivacco Craveri (3.490m)
This bivouac hut is also called Biv. des Dames Anglaises. It is situated northern of Brèche N of Dames Anglaises at the foot of the east flank on SE-ridge of Aig. Blanche de Peuterey. This bivouac hut is important for those climbing the complete Peuterey-ridge.
It is essential to make reservations for most of these huts. Bivouac huts have no guardian and it is usually "first-come-first-served". Any hut approaches described are only general, to give an idea what might be involved. Consult a guide book or enquire locally for more specific information. Many of these huts require glacier and snow approaches. Recent changes in climate patterns and the glaciers may have changed the approaches.
Camping is technically not allowed on the mountain at all, or anywhere on the massif. Bivying is allowed. That is: pitch tent at sundown, pack tent at sunrise. People camp anyway though, and only rarely will the police step in. Since the huts are so crowded, it is becoming increasingly common to camp on the mountain. I question the environmental impact this is causing and would encourage people to respect the camping ban.
July and August are the best climbing months. Anyhow the weather can suddenly change at any time even in the summer months. Sudden thunderstorms that turn into snow storms have ambushed and killed many climbers. Consult the weather forecasts regularly and then be prepared for these to be wrong. Weather systems usually come from the West and so the Mont Blanc range is the first to get hit by storms. This mountain makes its own weather.
Weather and Conditions Information
Office de Haute Montagne
(guides office)
Tel: +33 450.53.22.08
Fax: +33 450.53.27.74
[email protected]
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“Monte Bianco Vol. I” di Gino Buscaini, Collana Guide dei Monti d’Italia CAI TCI, 1994.
“Monte Bianco - Guide Vallot” ed. Mediterranee, 1999.
“Il massiccio del Monte Bianco – Le 100 più belle ascensioni” by Gaston Rébuffat, Zanichelli Edizioni.
“Rifugi e Bivacchi delle Alpi Occidentali” by Cesare Re, Ed. Guide Macchione, 2005.
“Rifugi e Bivacchi del CAI” by Franco Bo, Ed. Priuli e Verlucca, 20020.
CNS 1:50.000, Courmayeur, foglio 292
Kompass 1:50.000, Monte Bianco, foglio 85
De Agostini 1:50.000, Monte Bianco Institut Géographique National
1:25.000 no. 3630 OT (Chamonix).
1:25.000 no. 3531 ET (St-Gervais).
To order maps:
Switzerland: www.swisstopo.ch
France: www.ign.fr
Maps can also be purchased in local bookstores upon arrival.
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This page will be kept in honour of the SP member Rahel Maria Liu, the former owner of this page, died on 25 August 2004 in a freak snowstorm on the Innominata Ridge (Southern side of Monte Bianco) at the age of 34.
Questa pagina sarà tenuta in onore del membro SP Rahel Maria Liu, l'ex proprietaria di questa pagina, morta il 25 agosto 2004 in una tempesta di neve anomala sulla Cresta dell'Innominata (versante meridionale del Monte Bianco) all'età di 34 anni.
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Children refers to the set of objects that logically fall under a given object. For example, the Aconcagua mountain page is a child of the 'Aconcagua Group' and the 'Seven Summits.' The Aconcagua mountain itself has many routes, photos, and trip reports as children.
Parents refers to a larger category under which an object falls. For example, theAconcagua mountain page has the 'Aconcagua Group' and the 'Seven Summits' asparents and is a parent itself to many routes, photos, and Trip Reports.
