The 3D printing hobby starts off feeling like a bottomless pit of money and possibilities, but once you've figured out the perfect hardened steel nozzle for your printer, dialed in retraction settings and E-steps, and calibrated profiles for smooth prints in your favorite filaments, you hit another limitation. I've noticed that besides the unique ornamental models and print-in-place designs, most 3D printable solutions exist for problems rooted in products used worldwide. Things like the Gridfinity system built around IKEA drawers and shelving solves problems many people face.

However, print enough of those models, and you'll still not have tapped the true sense of innovation and joy that comes from designing solutions to your own problems. Yes, you start scraping the surface firing up a CAD tool to adjust a parametric model to fit your requirements, but engineering a new product and holding it in your hands after hours of design-print-design looping feels different, because you're literally imagining a product and making it a reality instead of seeing something on the screen and making a copy for yourself. I'm a design engineer with a knack for 3D printing my prototypes, and there are so many things you don't realize about designing your own prints one wouldn't realize until they've done it. Allow me to shed some light on them.

👁 9 software tools you need for your 3D printing ventures - featured
9 software tools you need for your 3D printing ventures

Your 3D printing journey will require some software tools. Here are nine types of software you'll find handy

By  Jeff Butts

Thingiverse and Printables are the tip of the iceberg

One size fits none

There's no inherent problem with downloading an STL designed and uploaded by a member of the 3D printing community. I didn't realize this until much later, but requirements are sometimes very specific, and I'd often end up settling for something less than perfect. Take, for instance, a cable clip. A file online might work perfectly for the original creator, but depending on the shielding, braiding, and outer material of a simple USB cable, its thickness can vary. This forces you to print out a first model, just to discover its shortcomings in your use case like the clip being too tight, or unsuitable for attaching to your desk. This prompts a second print with scaling adjustments applied in the slicer beforehand.

Besides the minor inconvenience of figuring out these design details and reprinting some files, there's the printer optimizations baked into the design. I'll admit it isn't significant today if you're well-versed with the capabilities of your machine, but most designs are optimized for specific popular machines, commonly used layer heights, and using infill patterns and densities that don't wear out your printer belts. However, you might be more comfortable with a different nozzle, material, and the linear rails on your printer might withstand the abuse of doing high-density gyroid infill. This directly impacts design choices you cannot alter, like the fillet radius and curvatures on the periphery of the downloaded models. You're inherently adapting to your machine's capabilities, using the slicer settings to account for your preferred material and design choices you're well past the point of modifying.

Then, there's the most obvious limitation — the lack of niche models. Yeggi might help you find countless Benchy variations, retraction tests, calibration cubes, and bridging test models, but they likely won't have the perfect rack mounting bracket for a discontinued amplifier from the 90s, or the exact housing you'd need to mount tweeters on the A-pillars of a base-model Civic. Such models leave you one of two choices — hiring a designer on Fiverr, or picking up a textbook and learning how to work a CAD software. And I'm a strong advocate of the latter.

Control of design is control of the entire production workflow

You'll save time between iterations, and your sanity too

I'm academically qualified as a mechanical engineer with a specialization in design and production, so understandably, I was trained by professionals to use CAD software, and I've stayed in touch with the ecosystem through the evolution of 3D printing, despite working in an unrelated industry. Nonetheless, the learning curve for CAD software is easy to scale, especially if you already understand volumetric definition of parts, and can imagine things in 3D. A vivid imagination is key, and all that remains is to translate it into sketches with dimensions your CAD software can understand and fuse together to create solid objects.

While Autodesk's Fusion360 is the industry standard for free and accessible design tools, there are several free and open-source (FOSS) options like FreeCAD and TinkerCAD if you find Fusion's free tier too restrictive, or the UI too complex. Importantly, there's a key difference between Blender or Tinkercad and the likes of FreeCAD. The latter is parametric, meaning it is more engineering-oriented with mathematical constraints for defining points and edges of your model backed by a revision history, while Blender is better suited for ornamental prints where visual appearance trumps dimensional accuracy.

With control over every dimension, you can ensure printed parts fit your super-specific requirements, and that's inherently faster than scouring the interwebs for a perfect match. Sure, in some cases, reworking an existing design and attributing the original creator might save you a ton of groundwork if you only need minor changes. Otherwise, designing from the ground-up lets you optimize files for your specific filament and printer parameters, like the bed size for splitting parts, chamfer distance for strong perpendicular bends depending on your layer height, and tolerances of meshing parts that accounts for the nozzle size and filament squish in every layer. This granular control is all pre-set for you in downloaded models.

If you don't nail the design in the first go, modifying the problematic dimension is way easier when you created the model, because CAD software allows rolling models back to the problematic step and updating all downstream changes, complete with error checks that flag failures like intersecting faces, missing definition curves, etc. After a little trial and error, you can also make note of the design parameters best suited for specific printer and slicer settings so you get beautiful prints in the first go.

End-to-end control is what made Apple succeed, and so can you

Sure, CAD software has a learning curve that might be a struggle to conquer unassisted, and you'll need good spatial visualization paired with sound math. Once it's all said and done, you settle into a groove designing your own models, printing prototypes, and optimizing them in iterations, I can assure you the return on the time investment of learning CAD is way higher than installing Klipper or upgrading to a dual-Z axis on your printer. Throw a 3D scanner in the mix down the road, and you'll have free rein to print models that mesh with your environment seamlessly.

With end-to-end control of the project from start to finish, there's little standing between you and perfection. As I said before, nothing comes close to the satisfaction of taking something from your imagination and holding it in your hands a few hours later.

Elegoo Centauri Carbon
8.5/10
Build Volume
256x256x256 mm
Printing Speed
500 mm/s
Materials Used
Carbon/Glass Fiber Reinforced Filaments/PLA/PETG/ABS/ASA/TPU/PET/PC/PA
Printing Acceleration
20,000 mm/s2

Capable of printing high-quality models without emptying your wallet, the Centauri Carbon is Elegoo's newest addition to the FDM space. Its Core XY design lets it hit fast print speeds, and you can operate every aspect of the Centauri Carbon from its responsive touchscreen display, Not to mention, its enclosed shell lets you print a variety of filament types.