Personalized user experiences are the ethos of the mechanical keyboard hobby. They go far beyond conventional input devices, and a hobby that once catered to typing purists who missed the IBM Model M has now evolved into a full-blown subculture for gamers and user-experience aficionados alike. The sheer variety of switches, keycaps, cases, and layouts can inadvertently ensure your build is truly one of a kind, but my goal with all the endless modifications has always been to improve the typing experience. This can be through audible feedback, tactility, or just how my oftentimes tiny keyboards become conversation starters.
3D printing is yet another such niche that unlocks limitless potential for makers seeking personalization of the tangible, without breaking the bank. With a finger in either pie, I've found there's a lot to enjoy at the intersection of mechanical keyboards and 3D printing. You're no longer limited by what manufacturers decide to sell. You can design, print, and implement custom parts that refine how your keyboard looks, feels, and sounds. So let me save you some time scouring for the next STL you can fire up.
Beginner’s guide to mechanical keyboards: Switches, keycaps, form-factors, and more
Ready to buy or build you new mechanical keyboard and enter the rabbit hole?
Make a custom switch plate
More than just a structural piece
In a mechanical keyboard, key structural elements such as the switch plate and case also play a crucial role in shaping the keyboard's sound during operation. Besides holding every switch firmly in place, you can expect a significant alteration in the sound signature depending on the material and design of the switch plate. Most pre-assembled budget keyboards ship with pressed steel, aluminum, or polypropylene plastic plates, which can sound pingy or be undesirably loud. 3D printing your own plate in a material like ABS or ASA plastic is a great alternative, since the porosity of the plastic inherently helps with sound isolation, thus offering a deeper, more muted sound profile that many enthusiasts find incredibly satisfying.
Moreover, the structural rigidity of metallic plates delivers a stiffness heavy-handed typists find undesirable due to the firmness of the bottom-out on every keystroke. This is easily remedied by relief cuts for flexure in these metallic switch plates, often found in more expensive keyboard kits. Even with minimal 3D printing experience, you can create your own replacement switch plate. Brands like Keychron offer the 2D CAD files for free public use, but you can also reverse-engineer your own using Vernier calipers and a notepad. I've tried this and enjoyed success printing plates in ABS and ASA plastic, making an entry-level board sound and feel like a much more premium custom build. It’s a testament to how a single, well-chosen component can redefine the character of your entire keyboard.
Gaskets for O-ring mount
Gummy O-ring be gone
Among the many mounting styles, the gummy O-ring style has become something of a holy grail for enthusiasts who frequently disassemble but still need some give on the bottom-out. This mounting style utilizes a continuous, ring-like gasket that is squished between the switch plate and PCB, isolating the assembly from the case. The result is a soft bottom-out experience and more uniformity in both sound and feel across individual switches on the board.
TPU is a slightly elastic yet printable plastic that's ideal for printing out ring-shaped replacement gaskets of the precise length. Another option I've used is a similar squishy TPU gasket for hot-swappable boards where the switch plate and PCB aren't rigidly bound by dozens of solder joints. Combined with the specific Shore hardness of the TPU filament used, this model is designed specifically with 3D printing in mind. This level of control is simply not possible with off-the-shelf O-rings, which come in standard sizes and hardness levels. Moreover, you can adjust the squishiness of these little printable gaskets through slicer settings such as infill parameters.
The difference this makes compared to a standard tray-mounted or top-mounted keyboard is night and day. In those rigid mounting styles, the vibrations from each keystroke are transferred directly into the case, resulting in a harsher feel and a noisier sound profile.
Make your own sound-dampening
Better than sheets of foam
Beyond mounting style and other technical aspects that affect the sound signature of a mechanical keyboard, anyone with a basic 3D printer can add a layer of dampening to even the most basic of keyboards. Dampening usually reduces the empty volume inside the keyboard case, reducing room for high-pitched reverberation, and making the board sound less hollow and more "thocky".
Custom-cut sheets of Poron or EVA foam can be replaced by porous print filaments like TPU if you can put dimensions on the empty volume in your keyboard case. Using the same switch plate file as above, you can sandwich more TPU between the plate and PCB-a job that would've been impossibly tedious to execute manually. An un-dampened board often sounds thin, hollow, and a bit cheap, regardless of how good the switches or keycaps are. Adding a TPU dampener cleans up the sound profile significantly, making each keystroke sound more solid.
Never miss a keycap
Custom caps for every need
Outfitting a custom mechanical keyboard feels incomplete without custom keycaps. The stock options in PBT plastic have improved drastically in recent years, but custom options also cover non-standard layouts with odd-sized modifier keys or a split spacebar. Instead of spending a fortune on a new keycap set just for its modifiers, you could print your own in resin for a comparable feel, even though high-resolution FDM comes close too. The same goes for adding to a set that doesn't have odd sizes to cover compact layouts-a problem I'm all too familiar with on my sub-40% keyboards.
3D printing your own caps lets you choose everything from the material to the color, keycap profile, legends, surface finish, and design. Most standard profiles, like MT3, are open-sourced by the designers themselves, while Cherry and SA profile models are readily available.
I 3D printed my own keycaps, and now I'm addicted
Customize your keyboard right at home
Print a custom case for an odd PCB
Or hand-wire your own build
For the truly dedicated keyboard builder, the ultimate expression of personalization is creating a keyboard from scratch, often starting with just a custom-designed PCB. As such, finding a pre-made case is simply impossible. This is where a 3D printer transitions from being a tool for modification to essential manufacturing equipment. This way, you can create a housing for any keyboard. That includes sculpted boards, such as the Dacty Manuform, which must be hand-wired since curved PCBs are prohibitively expensive to produce in small quantities.
The Dactyl Manuform is a popular open-source design that features a curved, split layout that would be impossible to manufacture using traditional methods. If the entire case is 3D printed, you'll see tabletop production unlock even more features, such as modification of the sculpt and tenting angles. A fully 3D-printed keyboard creates an input device that adapts to you, marking the pinnacle of functional yet personal computing gadgets.
Someone built their own split keyboard with a 3D printer and $25
Why buy when you can make?
Give 3D printed bits a spin
Anyone building a new mechanical keyboard or thinking about modifying their current one should seriously consider the role a 3D printer can play. It doesn't even require an investment of time and a willingness to tinker, because you can outsource the print job to a specialized service affordably. The immense rewards include an unparalleled level of control over your keyboard's aesthetics, acoustics, and ergonomics, with the ability to create components that are perfectly suited to your preferences. The potential for what's possible just keeps swelling.
