The first thing that comes to mind when our CPUs run a bit too hot for our liking is to consider a new AIO. In fact, whenever I used to see CPU temperatures exceeding 85C while gaming, I'd start browsing Amazon or Newegg for better options. While a more powerful cooler can lower temperatures, the return on investment is far from convincing. Take that from someone who has splurged on multiple high-end AIOs like the Aorus 360 and Liquid Freezer II 360 in the past.
If it wasn't for the one time I barely noticed any improvement in CPU thermals after upgrading my cooler, I'd probably still be going down that same path. The Aorus 360 upgrade made me take a step back and look at what was actually causing the heat in the first place, which rarely has anything to do with the cooler itself. In the vast majority of cases, it comes down to how your CPU behaves under load, its power limits, your airflow configuration, and sometimes even the quality of your thermal paste.
Cheap vs quality thermal paste: Should you go for a generic company or stick with the popular brands?
While the average temperatures aren't too bad on an cheap thermal paste, the maximum temps tell a different story
I started by improving airflow
After all, my cooler is only as good as the air around it
Airflow was the first thing I looked at once I stopped blaming the cooler. It sounds obvious, but I wasn't actually paying attention to how air moved through my case. I was just so used to packing my case with as many fans as possible, hoping that brute-forcing airflow would improve thermals. I eventually learned that good airflow is more about direction than sheer fan count. Without a clear intake and exhaust path, adding more fans just creates turbulence rather than moving heat out of the case.
So this time, instead of adding more fans, I focused on creating a proper front-to-back airflow path. On top of that, I configured my fans in a way that maintained a slight positive pressure inside the case. This meant that more fresh air was being pulled in than pushed out, which also helped with dust buildup, since my case wasn't pulling in air through random gaps. When you have three 140mm fans at the front of the case, it's more about managing where that air goes. All I did was make sure fresh air was flowing over my GPU and CPU, not getting trapped.
Repasting and reseating my AIO went a long way
Better paste helped, but I now know proper contact matters more
I'm sure many of us have replaced the thermal paste at some point while dealing with high CPU or GPU temperatures. If you used the stock thermal paste that came with your cooler, a premium aftermarket option like Thermal Grizzly Kryonaut Extreme or Noctua NT-H2 can usually shave 3–4 degrees off your CPU temperature. While that alone can make it feel like the paste upgrade did all the heavy lifting, I learned the hard way that proper cooler contact and mounting pressure are just as important.
When I removed my Aorus 360 AIO to replace the thermal paste, I noticed the paste wasn't evenly distributed across the cold plate. That's when I started doubting whether my cooler was actually making proper contact with the CPU in the first place. So this time, after repasting, I made sure to tighten the mounting screws gradually in a cross pattern rather than tightening one side all the way. This not only dropped my CPU temperatures by about 5C, but also fixed the random temperature spikes I used to see while gaming.
Undervolting gave me instant results
Lowering the voltage slightly cut temperatures without affecting performance
This is by far my favorite tweak because I don't have to get inside my case or spend any money. After dealing with airflow and mounting, this was the first change that gave me immediate results without touching any hardware. All I had to do was use PBO2 Tuner to apply a slight negative curve offset, reducing my 5800X3D's temperatures by about 3–4 degrees. I started in increments of -10mV and worked my way down instead of pushing it too far right away to avoid stability issues and crashes.
If you have a newer CPU like the 9800X3D or 9950X3D, you may have to rely on your BIOS-specific Curve Optimizer settings instead of PBO2 Tuner, though. Either way, the end result should be similar. And if you're worried about sacrificing performance, let me just tell you that the undervolt actually helped my 5800X3D sustain its peak boost clocks for longer. That made a noticeable difference during longer gaming sessions because the CPU wasn't running into thermal limits as often, and performance was more consistent overall.
You don't need a new cooler if you already have a decent one
A new cooler may seem like the most obvious upgrade, but it's really the last thing you should look at once you already have something decent. What matters more is how much heat your CPU generates and how efficiently your cooler and case handle it. That's why I focused on the basics like airflow, cooler contact, thermal paste, and eventually a slight undervolt, and it gave me a bigger temperature drop than any AIO upgrade I rushed into before. Once everything is dialed in, and you're still not satisfied, that's when a new cooler actually makes sense.
Arctic Liquid Freezer III 360 A-RGB
- Brand
- Arctic
- Cooling Method
- Liquid
- Integrated Lighting
- Yes
- Fan Speed
- ~2,500 RPM
The successor to the Arctic Liquid Freezer II is an excellent AIO liquid-cooling kit with larger radiators, improved performance, and a similar affordable price. The excellent 6-year warranty is double that of many other liquid coolers on the market. The Liquid Freezer III is everything you need for a capable gaming rig with the latest AMD or Intel processors.
